Inside Genoa’s Palazzi dei Rolli

Think about the city or town that you come from. Then think about the wealthiest people who live there – maybe the top 40 or 50 of them.

Then imagine that they all came together and agreed to take over one street of your city and build enormous grand homes for themselves on that street, right next to each other.

If you can picture that, then you’re on your way to getting a sense of what the Strada Nuova in Genoa is like. Just make it ten times more luxurious and palatial than you’re imagining.

In the 1500s, there was a lot of money in Genoa as it flourished as one of Europe’s most important trading ports (the wealth of which you’ll still see when you explore the Historic Centre of Genoa).

The various families that controlled the money wanted somewhere special to live and, in partnership with the local political authorities, this stretch of street was allocated.

It was called Strada Nuova (the New Street) but today it is known as Via Garibaldi Along each side, dozens of grand homes were built.

Each of these palaces – for they really were palaces, rather than homes – was unique, reflecting the particular characteristics of the site and the interests of the owners. But there was also some consistency in the architecture.

The palaces were each three or four storeys high, with a large entrance hall with spectacular open staircases. They had elegantly-decorated public reception rooms and private residential areas.

Most also had courtyards and covered galleries with garden areas – although, unlike other Italian homes of the time like the Medici Villas, the emphasis was certainly on the interiors more than on the outdoor areas.

Palazzi dei Rolli

Throughout the 16th and the 17th centuries, a huge number of these large palace-like buildings were constructed in Genoa.

In fact, there were so many that they ended up covering more than just a single stretch of the city and the broader neighbourhood in which they were built became known as Strade Nuove, meaning ‘New Streets’, the plural of the original Strada Nuova (New Street).

Although each of these grand palatial homes was individually owned, they also operated as a collective group of residences that had a public role. Together, they are described as the Palazzi dei Rolli.

One of the main public roles of these homes was to host visiting dignitaries. Genoa didn’t have a royal palace of its own but, because of the city’s importance, there were a lot of state visits here.

So the families of the Palazzi dei Rolli took turns providing accommodation, meals and formal receptions when heads of state and other important envoys were in town. The higher a guest’s status, the nicer the palace that was chosen for them.

Most of the palaces still exist today, spread across the Strade Nuove in Genoa.

Some are in private hands. Some are used for businesses like banks or shops.

And then there are a few that have been maintained as they would have been centuries ago – and they are open to the public.

In total, there are 163 buildings that are considered to be part of the Palazzi dei Rolli system, and 40 of them have been included in the World Heritage Site listing.

You’ll see many of them as you explore Genoa – perhaps even without realising. But to focus on the best of the palaces, head to the main street that was once known as Strada Nuova, but is now called Via Garibaldi.

Strada Nuova

Via Garibaldi only stretches for about 260 metres, so it doesn’t take very long at all to walk along it. This was the original Strada Nuova, where you can get a sense of how the Palazzi dei Rolli project began.

You may not even realise, but Via Garibaldi becomes another street, called Via Cairoli, after Piazza Grimaldi. Although this is included in the broader Strade Nuove (plural) neighbourhood, it was an extension that was only added in the late 18th century.

Just walking down the road, you’ll immediately see how grand the buildings are, with the elegant facades looking down on you from both directions.

But it’s really the interiors that are the true treasures here, not just because of the architecture but because of the artworks, decorations, and other important artefacts that many of the buildings hold.

To go inside the best Genoa palaces, I recommend heading to the Musei di Strada Nuova on Via Garibaldi.

The name, Musei di Strada Nuova, is slightly misleading because it is plural – ‘Museums of the New Street’ even though you only need one ticket and all the buildings are in the same area. But it’s called that because technically it is made up of three different palaces.

For just €9 (€7 for a concession) you can visit the Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco, and Palazzo Doria Tursi. It is well worth the time and the cost, and this is what you can expect in each of the buildings.

Palazzo Rosso

The Palazzo Rosso was built between 1671 and 1677. It was owned by the Brignole Sale family until 1874 when Maria Brignole Sale, duchess of Galliera, bequeathed it to the city of Genoa.

After you go up the large stunning staircase to the first floor, you’ll find a collection of rooms decorated with frescoes by the greatest Ligurian painters of the 17th century. There are precious furnishings, paintings, and other pieces of art.

The first floor gives you a bit of a sense of how the rooms may have once been laid out and how guests would have been entertained here. As you go up to the higher levels, there are some exhibitions that give an insight into the lives of those who were lucky enough to once call this home.

Make sure you catch the elevator up to the roof for incredible views across Genoa. You’ll also be able to get a bit of a sense of how the street was designed with the different palaces.

Palazzo Bianco

Across the road is the Palazzo Bianco, built between 1530 and 1540, which you’ll immediately realise has a much more imposing entrance. Going up the staircase in the foyer, you’ll get a sense of how large this building is.

The terraced garden out to one side if one of the highlights and there’s actually a lot of space here, compared to many of the gardens of the other palaces.

The Palazzo Bianco is used these days as more of an art gallery than a representation of its original interior layout. You will be able to see the rooms and admire how they are decorated – but mainly the focus is on the impressive collection of paintings and other art that is hanging on the walls.

Palazzo Doria Tursi

The Palazzo Tursi is right next to the Palazzo Bianco and you’ll actually access it through a corridor, rather than coming back out onto the street.

It has some monumental halls which you’ll be able to visit. The frescoes and designs of these rooms are stunning in themselves, but they are also used to display some of the treasures that the city owns.

The most important treasure in the collection is probably a violin made by Giuseppe Guarneri that was owned by Paganini (and is ‘priceless’ but has an estimated value of about $18 million!).

The Palazzo Doria Tursi has some of the city council’s offices in it and so has a more formal feel to it than the other residential-style palaces. I think it’s interesting to see the contrast in styles.

Visiting the Musei di Strada Nuova

Overall, these palaces on Via Garibaldi are a highlight of the Strade Nuove and I think the Musei di Strada Nuova is one of the best things to do in Genoa.

In total, your visit to the three sections of the museums will take you to more than 75 rooms, so there’s a lot to see. You can go as slow or fast as you like, but I would recommend allowing about two hours in total.

For just €9 (€7 for a concession), you can visit the Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco, and Palazzo Doria Tursi. So I think it’s great value.

The Musei di Strada Nuova is also included in the Genoa City Pass, which gives you access to other attractions and includes public transport. It may or may not be worth it (depending on what you’re planning to see) but have a look here to see if you’ll save money.

And it’s also included in the Genova Museum Card, which gives you access to lots of museums but only within a 24-hour period.

You can see more information at the official website of the museums.

Although it’s easy enough to explore the museum on your own, you will get more out of having a guide. But especially once you’re on the street and looking for more of the Palazzi dei Rolli, it will really help to have someone who knows what to look for.

That’s why I would definitely recommend this great guided tour of Genoa’s palaces that will take you to the highlights and tell you all about the background and what you’re looking at.

Or there are some other good tours in Genoa here that include some of the Strade Nuove:

If you’re feeling hungry after exploring the different palaces, grab something to eat at Le Rune which serves seasonal Italian dishes with locally sourced produce. Or head over to Groove for a burger in an industrial setting.

You’re in the middle of Genoa, so there’s plenty more to discover, but if you’re looking for something close-by, head to the Villetta di Negro Park, where you can find a waterfall and an art museum.