The Kraton: Yogyakarta’s Royal Palace

At the palace in the Indonesian city of Yogyakarta, there are two honours passed down through the generations.

In both cases, when a son is born, the father knows his child will one day take on a special responsibility. It is the right and the duty of the child to follow in the footsteps of his ancestors.

One of these honours is to become the Sultan of Yogyakarta, a hereditary title that dates back to the eighteenth century.

The other great honour that stays in the family is to be a guard at the palace.

It is not just royalty that passes on the job to the next generation, but also those who dedicate their lives to royal protection.

Today, there are two thousand palace guards in total. Only about one thousand are active, though.

It’s a job for life, so as they get older and can’t physically work anymore, they are looked after rather than being thrown out of service.

On any particular day, there are about one hundred palace guards actually working.

The palace is known in Yogyakarta as the Kraton. Although it’s open for visitors in the morning, it is still a functioning part of the political sphere here in the region.

The Sultan has held that particular title in name, not power, since the declaration of Indonesian independence in 1945 – but he is also automatically the governor of the region.

Therefore the Kraton is used for official functions, political meetings, and as the royal residence.

The formal royal garden (called Taman Sari and known as the Water Castle) is no longer in official use, though, and you can visit it separately about 500 metres away.

There is also a cultural link between the Royal Palace compound and the people. In some ways, it is almost a spiritual connection.

The Kraton was designed to reflect the Javanese cosmos. It faces towards the volcanic Mount Merapi in one direction and towards the Indian Ocean, home of the important Indonesian sea spirit, in the other.

The placement of the pavilions, the courtyards and even the trees all have significance within the traditional spiritual view of the world by the local people.

But, look a bit closer, and you’ll also see in the intricate designs an integration of the faiths that have influenced this part of Indonesia over the years.

There are Buddhist, Islamic and Hindi elements to much of the decoration in the central part of the palace.

From my experience, most of Indonesia is very proud of its heritage. But those in Yogyakarta seem more enthusiastic than others to continue weaving it into daily modern life.

The Kraton and the connection with the people is a strong one. There seems to be a genuine affection and respect for the leadership amongst the people here.

This palace complex is the bridge between the old and the new and the faith that binds the cultures.

Visit the Kraton in Yogyakarta

Many international tourists use Yogyakarta just as a base to visit the impressive World Heritage Sites nearby – the Hindu temple of Prambanan and the Buddhist temple of Borobudur.

But the Royal Palace is one of the most important sights in the city and I would definitely recommend visiting the Kraton.

Right in the centre of the city, it’s easy to find and easy to reach when you’re doing a bit of other sightseeing.

The entrance fee is very reasonable and there are quite a few things to see at the Kraton, so I think it’s good value. A visit should only take less than an hour.

Keep in mind that, although it’s called a ‘palace’ it isn’t going to look like the grand and opulent European palaces you may have seen on your travels. This one has been built for the hot conditions and in a generally more demure style, although there’s a real beauty in the Javanese architecture on display.

At certain times of the day, there are musical and cultural performances in the inner pavilion that are quite interesting. These are included in your ticket price, so ask about the timings when you arrive.

A few other useful bits of visitor information:

• There is an additional charge of IDR 3,000 (US$0.20) if you wish to bring in a camera or video recorder.
• There will be less happening during Ramadan (including no cultural shows)
• There are two entrances/exits so you don’t have to backtrack through the palace
• Dress appropriately because it is considered a sacred place. That includes no hats.

There are some information boards in English, and some exhibitions with treasures of the royal family, but you’ll get more out of the visit if you know a bit of the background of Yogyakarta’s sultanate.

There are lots of things to see in Yogyakarta so you’ll be able to make the most of your time (and learn a lot more) with a guided tour. I would recommend this full-day trip that includes the Royal Palace, as well as the Water Castle and one of the World Heritage temples.

Or there are some other great tour options to consider here:

You may also find that there will be guides in the Royal Palace offering their services. This can be a bit confusing because most of them are volunteers who won’t have an official price for the tour, but they will expect a tip at the end.

For more information, see the official website of the Kraton in Yogyakarta.

Because the Royal Palace is right in the heart of Yogyakarta, there are lots of other things to do around it.

Most relevant is the Taman Sari (also known as the Water Castle) and I would recommend combining the Royal Palace with a visit to the Water Castle.

There are a few interesting museums nearby that are worth popping into:

• Jogja National Museum: A contemporary art museum that has Indonesian and international works.
• Vredeburg Museum: Set in a former Dutch colonial fortress, this history museum covers different eras but with a focus on the colonial period.
• Museum Perjuangan: A smaller museum that showcases the history of Indonesia’s struggle for independence.

I would also recommend checking out the traditional Pasar Legi Market, as well as the twin banyan trees of Bringin Kembar, and also the RuangDalam Art House.

For somewhere to eat near the Royal Palace of Yogyakarta, have a look at

• Bale Raos: Within the palace complex, it serves regional dishes that have been eaten at the palace over the years.
• Gadri Resto: Another traditional restaurant that tries to replicate the menus of the palace and the sultan, although it’s on a street outside.
• Bakmi Mataraman Mas Pet Bun: A casual eatery on the street that makes a famous Javanese noodle.

Ultimately, I think visiting the Kraton is a key experience while you’re here in Yogyakarta so hopefully you can make some time to see it and learn more about the fascinating heritage of the sultanate.

Time Travel Turtle was a guest of the Indonesian Ministry of Tourism but the opinions, over-written descriptions and bad jokes are his own.