High on a hill and guarded by monkeys

If you can brave the 777 steps, the monkeys, and the spirits, then the climb to the monastery at top of Mount Popa in Myanmar is a beautiful experience.

Written by Michael Turtle

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle. A journalist for more than 20 years, he's been travelling the world since 2011.

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle and has been travelling full time for a decade.

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Mount Popa Monastery, Myanmar

You feel every one of the 777 steps climbing to the top of the monastery at Mount Popa. Partly because of the burn in your legs. Party because of the constant threat of attack from the hundreds of monkeys who live along the staircase, seemingly guarding it, army-like, from any enemy invasion. In lieu of any enemies, they make food in your bags or pockets their target.

Mount Popa Monastery, near Bagan, Myanmar
Mount Popa Monastery, near Bagan, Myanmar

The monastery is built on the top of a volcanic plug, caused by the nearby volcano Mount Popa. It rises 737 metres above sea level and stands out awkwardly on the landscape, like a lone skyscraper in a city of shacks. From below, the gold at the top shimmers in the Myanmar sun.

Mount Popa Monastery, near Bagan, Myanmar

Along the staircase to the top, various temples and shrines provide a chance for rest and spiritual reflection on why you’re tackling such a climb.

Mount Popa Monastery, near Bagan, Myanmar

A hermit called U Khandi maintained the staircase until he died in the 1940s. For a hermit, it wouldn’t have been a particularly solitary life, though. The monastery is a popular pilgrimage site for the Myanmar people.

Mount Popa Monastery, near Bagan, Myanmar
Mount Popa Monastery, near Bagan, Myanmar

They come in a large part for the residents of the mountain. Not the monkeys… or the monks… but the spirits known as nats. There are 37 of them in residence, apparently, and are depicted in their human forms in these statues at the bottom of the staircase.

Mount Popa Monastery, near Bagan, Myanmar
Mount Popa Monastery, near Bagan, Myanmar

The Mount Popa monastery, or Taung Kalat as it’s technically known, is an easy day trip from Bagan. It takes just over an hour to drive there and there are plenty of people in Bagan who will gladly take you.

If you would like to book a tour in advance, there are some options here:

 
Mount Popa Monastery, near Bagan, Myanmar

If you’re not scared of monkeys – or nats – it’s worth it.

24 thoughts on “High on a hill and guarded by monkeys”

    • Lots more gems from Burma! I hadn’t heard of Mount Popa either (even though it is referred to in guidebooks and stuff, I hadn’t read that bit too carefully). So it was a really pleasant surprise to get there and realise exactly what it looked like!

      Reply
  1. This place really reminds me of Sigiriya in Myanmar which is a lonesome volcanic plug amid the vast plains of the island. It seems like this place is really worth a visit when I go to Bagan one day.

    Reply
    • I would put the monkeys at 11 on the scale! 🙂 No, seriously, most of them were quite well-behaved but there were a few that were so not afraid of humans that they would just jump right on you and try to go through your bag or pockets. I had to bat them away with a water bottle!

      Reply

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