The erotic art of Lima’s Museo Larco

A man and a woman, wrapped in an intimate embrace, connected as one. A natural act that should be celebrated as a bringer of life and an ultimate symbol of our reason for being.

These days we seem to have a very conservative view of sex but, for the ancient cultures of Peru, it was not something to be hidden away. They saw a power in the physicality of love that transcended just the act itself.

It represented a sacred offering to the gods and brought strength to their whole community.

That’s why, when you look at the artwork of many of the Pre-Columbian civilisations of Peru, you find sexual activity depicted. One of the most obvious ways they illustrated this was through their pottery.

At the Larco Museum (Museo Larco) in Lima, you can see this Peruvian erotic pottery for yourself. Away from the main building of the museum, in a smaller section behind some vines, is the Gallery of Erotic Art.

I find it slightly odd that it’s in its own section, seeing as the people who made these pieces saw these depictions as something intertwined (quite literally) with the rest of their culture.

But perhaps it’s a nod to our own sensitivities. There is a lot of shame in the idea of the erotic today.

And, it’s true, the artwork seems graphic and a bit shocking by today’s standards. Not only are various forms of sexual activity portrayed in full detail, but they often involve demons or gods.

This, however, is one of the reasons why researchers are able to say that this artwork has a deeper significance than just being Peruvian pottery porn. There are rituals behind the images and they’re related to everything from agriculture to funerals.

Not everything about this art is known by today’s researchers, though, and you can use a certain amount of personal interpretation when looking at them.

Do they depict actual people or is it slightly more symbolic than that?

Were these pieces displayed only in places where rituals were held or were they a more accepted general form of art?

How did people living in these cultures behave in their everyday lives in relation to sexual activity?

I think visiting the Museo Larco is one of the best things to do in Lima and there’s lots more to see than just this section. But… of course it’s the one that everyone talks about.

The Larco Museum’s own description of the gallery is interesting in itself and says a lot about how our culture interacts on an academic level with these ones.

It says that the Erotic Art Gallery “offers a unique and fascinating opportunity for the study of sexuality, free of our own myths and prejudices”.

That’s probably a good way to think about it as you have a look through this collection of my photos from the gallery of Peruvian erotic pottery at the Museo Larco.

Visit Museo Larco

Of all the things to do in Lima, I think Museo Larco is one of the best. Aside from the collection of Peruvian erotic pottery, it has an impressive collection of pre-Columbian art.

In particular, the Gold and Silver Gallery has a huge collection of artefacts like crowns and masks. There are also lots of other ceramics in the museum.

Covering about 10,000 years of history, there are exhibits from cultures like the Moche, the Nazca and the Chavin – as well as the Incas, of course.

It’s easy to spend hours here and it can be a good thing to do at the beginning or end of a trip around Peru to see items from some of the main landmarks you can visit.

Tickets (which can be bought in advance online) include entrance to the Permanent Exhibition, Visible Storage, and the Erotic Gallery.

To save you time and hassle, there’s this guided tour of Museo Larco that includes hotel pick-up and entry ticket!

A few other useful bits of visitor information:

• Suitcases, backpacks, and other large bags can’t be taken inside and need to be checked in.
• Pets are not allowed except accredited guide animals.
• Food and drinks are not allowed inside the museum.
• Taking photos for personal use is permitted, but you can’t use flash, tripods, or selfie sticks.
• The museum is wheelchair and stroller accessible.

Often people only think about the Incas when they think about the heritage of Peru, but a visit to Museo Larco is a good way to get a broad overview of the many different cultures that have been a part of the country’s history.

You can see more details at the museum’s official website.

While you’re in the area, there are a few other things that are worth doing.

I would particularly recommend the National Museum of the Archaeology, Anthropology, and History of Peru. It’s the largest museum in the country and has more than 100,000 artefacts spanning the entire human history of Peru.

You might also like to have a look at Plaza de la Bandera (Flag Square), which has a 40-metre-high flagpole and a number of statues.

And it’s also just a 20-minute walk from the museum to the Huaca Mateo Salado, a huge archaeological site that was a ceremonial centre built by the Ychma culture in the 11th century, with large stepped pyramids.

For food, there’s the Cafe Museo Larco at the museum, which is relatively upmarket (but still good value when you convert it back to your own currency).

Or for something a bit more local, I would recommend Stable Restaurant, which is a friendly spot with great value Peruvian classics