In my stories about Sri Lanka, I have written a lot about the ancient histories of the island – the great cities of kings and the religious expressions of the Buddhist culture. But no look at the country is complete without examining the role of Europeans.
In the city of Galle, we can see an excellent representation of the story of their involvement.
Galle was built as a fortified coastal city with large walls along the seashore.
It was designed with a European way of thinking – that attacks from colonial competitors could come from the sea as well as the land.
Battlements along the walls provide the means for defence in case of an invasion.
It started with the Portuguese in 1588 and, at that time, the land borders of Galle were the most important sides to be protected because the biggest threat was from the locals.
The Portuguese built the town itself in the style of their homeland with churches as the most important buildings in the new settlement.
Galle fell to the Dutch in 1640 and the walls along the sea were fortified at this point. The French, the English, the Danish, the Spanish and the Portuguese were all vying for supremacy of the seas in this part of the world. An assault could come at any moment from one of the nations looking for a new stronghold in South Asia.
The settlement that the Dutch built inside the walls is what mainly remains today. The grid layout with wide roads and low buildings is reminiscent of the architecture of Holland at that time.
The geography of the two lands is different – as are the climates. And so regional variations had to be incorporated into the way the town was constructed.
When you wander around today and see the buildings, the most obvious aspect of difference is the open verandas supported by columns and the gardens attached to each house.
It may technically be European architecture but there are strong South Asian traditions incorporated into it.
At its peak under the Dutch, Galle was home to about 500 families. It had public buildings, administration centres, warehouses and (of course) churches.
There were also military facilities like barracks and weapons factories. After all, this was primarily a stronghold for Europeans in a strange land a long way from home.
Galle was handed over to the British in 1796 and they proceeded to make a number of changes to the city. Nothing fundamental, but some buildings and gates were added and a tower was erected to celebrate the jubilee of Queen Victoria.
These changes are still part of the city today.
What is also clearly part of the city today is tourists. They are everywhere. And you’ll get more out of your visit with a guide. I have a few suggestions here:
Although Galle as a city is the ninth largest in Sri Lanka (with a population of 100,000), almost all of these people live outside the fortified walls of the Old Town. This seems reserved mainly for guesthouses, restaurants and cafes.
Some homes are nestled in between but they seem to be outnumbered by the groups strolling the streets with their cameras or the people sitting in the terraces of restaurants with a cool drink.
Galle Fort
With its Portuguese beginnings, 17th-century Dutch influence and now a thriving Sri Lankan community, Galle Fort is a melting pot of culture, architecture and cuisine.
Completed in 1588, the fort expanded under Dutch rule to include expansive ramparts, a historic arsenal and former prisons. Today, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site that boasts a buffet of action for history buffs.
The Clock Tower
Right at the entrance to Galle Fort, it’s hard to miss the Clock Tower. Built in 1883, it’s about 26 metres high and is still a functional timepiece (as well as being a historical landmark).
Even though it sits amongst fortifications, the Clock Tower was actually built in honour of a local doctor called Peter Daniel Anthonisz, who was so beloved that his patients funded its construction.
The clock was originally powered by a weight-drive system but it’s since been modernised with an electric motor. As a Victorian-era structure, it blends colonial and local architectural elements. You can’t go inside but you can walk right up to it.
Churches
With its striking whitewashed facade and deep burgundy roof, the Dutch Reformed Church immediately captures your attention. Construction began in the mid-18th century, making this church one of the oldest in Sri Lanka.
The surrounding fence encases the church in ivory white, providing the site with an air of mystique. Surrounding the church is a cemetery, one that can be traced to the former Portuguese convent that stood on this very site. In fact, within the church lie upturned headstones of those that lie directly underground.
As you wander inside the Dutch Reformed Church (also known as Groote Kerk), you can admire the wooden, hexagonal pulpit, the high pews, and the historic organ.
The Dutch Reformed Church is open daily from 6:00 – 21:00.
Admission is free.
Another church worth visiting when you are at Galle Fort is the All Saints Church, constructed in 1871.
The church is designed in the Gothic Revival style and has a tranquil atmosphere. With elegant stained-glass windows and carved woodwork, it’s a good example of British colonial architecture.
All Saints Church is open daily from 8:30 – 17:30.
Admission is free.
Old Dutch Hospital
In keeping with its UNESCO status, much of Galle Fort has been restored to its former glory. The Old Dutch Hospital is one of those. However, not as you might expect.
Built in the 17th century, the hospital originally tended to soldiers and members of the Dutch East India Company. British occupation then transformed it into an army barracks.
And today? Fully refurbished, the Old Dutch Hospital is a flourishing shopping district. Throughout this historic building, boutiques flash their wares, while drinks are poured in the bars and delightful aromas waft out from the cafes.
The Old Dutch Hospital is open 8:00 – 23:00 daily.
Admission is free.
Meeran Jumma Mosque
The architecture of Galle is a rich amalgamation of various cultures. Meeran Jumma Mosque is no different. As you walk towards the white mosque, its facade evokes a Baroque style. The arched windows, bell towers and spires combine to create a vision of a cathedral.
But as you get closer, you’ll start to notice Islamic inscriptions and intricate designs. The mix continues inside, however. Alongside the prominent five-pointed stars and crescent moon of Islam, you’ll see Victorian-era influence and Italian flooring.
Although the inside is not always open to visitors, the elegant exterior is enough to make the visit worth it.
Meeran Jumma Mosque is open from 4:30 – 22:30
Admission is free.
Galle Fort Lighthouse
Along the so-called “Fort Walk” you can explore the outer reaches of Galle Fort. The coral-infused ramparts and fortifications feature the Clock Tower, Main Gate and Star Bastion. But among the highlights, one stands out, the Galle Fort Lighthouse.
The origins of the lighthouse date back to 1650. However, this iteration was constructed under British rule in 1848. Despite its age, it remains a working lighthouse, protecting ships coming in and out of Galle Harbour.
Surrounded by flowing palms, the Galle Fort Lighthouse makes for some memorable photography. The adjacent Lighthouse Beach is also a place to admire the construction while taking a refreshing dip.
Museums
In a place with such a rich history, it would be remiss of us, not to mention some of Galle’s most insightful museums. These help you retrace the steps of colonial occupation and Sri Lanka’s journey towards independence. You can even step beyond that and into the Middle Ages.
National Maritime Archaeology Museum
Since opening in 2002, the National Maritime Archaeology Museum has explored the history of life just off the coast. The museum is free to visit and with such eye-opening exhibits on display, it immediately hooks you in.
Across the many exhibits, you’ll be able to see centuries-old artefacts salvaged from shipwrecks small and large. The archaeological finds include historic maps, artilleries and parts of the shipwrecks themselves. This is balanced by displays of modern naval vessels.
Visitors can sign up for education tours. There is also an opportunity to explore some of the shipwrecks off the coast of Galle.
The National Maritime Archaeology Museum is open daily from 8:30 – 16:30.
A standard ticket is US$5 and a concession is US$2.50.
Galle National Museum
Appropriately, the Galle National Museum resides in the oldest Dutch building in the fort. The historic commissariat store makes for a grand entrance to the intriguing museum which explores the vibrant heritage of southern Sri Lanka.
It makes for one of the most important museums in the country. Artefacts, displays and interactive exhibits explore the history and culture long before colonialism changed the path of the country.
You’ll explore the heritage of the Sinhalese, while artefacts help paint the picture of life here in the Neolithic era. Lastly, you can learn all about the impacts, for better or worse, that came after the first Portuguese arrivals.
The Galle National Museum is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9:00 – 17:00.
A standard ticket is LKR 300 (US$1) and a concession is LKR 150 (US$0.50)
Historical Mansion Museum
Taking you on a journey to the height of Dutch occupation, the Historical Mansion Museum is awash with 18th-century artefacts. Within one of the fort’s most alluring homes, the museum houses a sprawling collection of antiquities.
As one of the biggest private museums in the country, it’s a fascinating look into the past. The architecture itself belongs on a list of its treasures, with the beautifully-aged wooden accents and beams. The most prominent part, however, is the grandiose entrance door, which dates to 1684.
Other artefacts include a range of ancient coins, jewellery, weapons and pottery. Old maps and paintings help to show you what Galle has looked like through the ages.
The Historical Mansion Museum is open from 9:00 – 18:00.
Admission is free.
Tours
With so much history, culture and cuisine to experience here in Galle, it helps to have a local shoulder to lean on. Guided tours can help you go beyond surface-level information to dive deeper and interact with the attractions you’re most interested in. Read on for our favourite picks.
City tour
With so much to see, one of the best ways to explore Galle Fort is on a city tour. Alongside a local guide, you can peel back the layers and explore both colonial and Sinhalese history.
On this city tour, you’ll start at the fort’s main entrance before wandering through the lively streets. With an insider’s help, you’ll learn how the area changed from a thriving cinnamon port to something much different when the Portuguese arrived.
See how the architecture has changed, while seeing the fort’s many hidden gems along the way, including the Galle Lighthouse.
Cooking class
In and outside of the fort, Galle is a delight to the senses. On your explorations, you’ll meander by many local restaurants whose local flavours and aromas will certainly pique your interest.
No doubt, after trying some of your own, you’ll be itchy to learn the recipes and bring a taste of Galle home with you. That, of course, calls for a cooking class.
It begins with a tuk-tuk ride to the Dutch Market. Load up on fresh ingredients before learning about the spices that infuse each meal. Once it’s all done, you’ll have five different curries to try!
Rural bike ride
After seeing all the city has to offer, you’ll have a great opportunity to explore Galle’s beautiful countryside. Just outside of the city, the world quickly changes and the lives of villagers and the open fields come into view.
On this rural bike ride, you’ll venture out of Galle on a 12-kilometre journey. Here, you’ll learn about and see village life
Around Galle Fort
Beyond the walls and bastions of Galle Fort lies Galle itself and an opportunity for an authentic Sri Lankan experience. Here, you can experience Galle as it is for the locals, a city of captivating heritage and close-knit communities. Not to mention some great beaches to swim in the Laccadive Sea.
Dutch Market
Over 300 hundred years of action have taken place under the columned roof of the Dutch Market. On Galle’s Main Street, the market has missed a beat even as the city changed hands time after time.
Having been a stronghold within the local community, vendors span generations, carrying on the legacy of their parents. Here, fresh produce, handcrafted wares, and a wild assortment of spices are the common items up for grabs.
Like any good market, the atmosphere is equally enticing as what is on sale. Wandering the lengthy stalls allows you to retrace the steps of 18th-century locals and see modern life in Galle play out.
The Dutch Market is open daily from 7:00 – 19:00.
Admission is free.
Unawatuna
Just ten minutes outside of Galle, Unawatuna has its own personality and easy access to gorgeous beaches. As you wander the town, you can’t help but feel at peace. Unawatuna has such a relaxing atmosphere and feels removed from the bustling tourist trail of South East Asia.
The quaint coastal town, Unawatuna, is known for its local fruit stands that are as vibrant as they are tasty. This extends to the local restaurants that present dishes that are both healthy and downright delicious. With a handful of fruit, check out the local Dalawella Beach. Here the offshore reed creates great snorkelling and calm waters.
Beaches
With its position on Sri Lanka’s southwest coast, Galle is in an envious position. Aside from Dalawella Beach, there are a dozen potential landing spots for your beach towel. Some of our favourites include Bentota, Akurala and Jungles beaches.
Near the Buddha Temple, Bentota Beach is a long stretch of soft golden sand. The mild surf makes the swim fun while the nearby restaurants wait to fuel you up.
Akurala Beach is renowned for the sense of calm beachgoers enjoy. The white sand remains quiet even in the high season, with pleasant swimming conditions and on-site food shacks.
You’ll have to complete a short, simple hike through the forest to reach Jungle Beach. But on arrival, the turquoise waters welcome you, and you’ll feel a world away from Galle.
Turtle hatchery
Day trips
After some time exploring the fort and wider Galle, it’ll be nice to mix it up and enjoy a change of scenery. Fortunately, there are a handful of great destinations not too far away, creating the perfect chance to see more of southern Sri Lanka.
South Coast
Sri Lanka’s South Coast is more than just pristine beaches and flowing palm trees. There are cultural gems and charming towns that allow yet another chance to see the country’s authentic side.
For example, Tissamaharama is more than just a gateway to Yala National Park. You discover stunning Buddhist stupas set among the rice paddies and a handful of beautiful lakes.
From there, you can follow the coastal road back to Galle, making your way through captivating, sleepy villages with mouthwatering local cuisine and historic architecture. Add in a couple of ocean swims, and it’s the perfect road trip.
Sinharaja Rainforest
The World Heritage-listed Sinharaja Rainforest is the last old-growth tropical rainforest in Sri Lanka. It’s both mysterious and utterly beautiful, ablaze with wildlife, the calls of nature and prismatic colours.
Because of its age and protection, this rainforest is laden with endangered and rare trees. Not to mention endemic species of various mammals, reptiles and birds. This allows you to see Sri Lanka, as it would have been.
To help you get the most of your experience, this tour pairs you up with a private guide. With a little help, you’ll have a better time spotting wildlife and learning about the forest. Plus, you’ll be able to swim under a remote waterfall.
Udawalawe National Park
One underrated aspect of Sri Lanka is its range of majestic wildlife. You can see the bulk of them within Udawalawe National Park. These include free-roaming herds of stunning elephants, leopards, monkeys, sloth bears and even crocodiles.
Some of these animals are easy to spot *cough* elephants *cough*. Others like the leopards can prove to be an elusive species. This safari helps out in that manner while allowing you to explore in your own Jeep.
The tour includes all entrance fees, with inclusive transfers from Galle.
Yala safari
On the outskirts of Tissamaharama, the Yala National Park is the second-largest in Sri Lanka. It’s a great place to see leopards, a wide range of migratory birds, water buffalo and, yes, even elephants!
There’s not much this national park is missing, and while you can certainly explore on your own, it helps to have a local hand. Try another safari, one that peels back the layers of Yala NP.
Come and explore indigenous wildlife and age-old forests. Among the fan favourites, you may even spot mongoose, deer, sambhur and some of the park’s 50 types of butterflies.
THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN GALLE
Although there are some charming options inside Galle Fort, the nicer hotels tend to be a bit further along the coast.
BACKPACKER
For a backpacker option, Dreamers Arc Hostel is small but cheap and comfortable.
BUDGET
For a nice hotel in the fort area at a great price, have a look at Southern Comforts Guest House.
BOUTIQUE
For a stylish hotel in a historic building in the fort area, The Fort Printers is incredible.
LUXURY
And if you are looking for luxury, I think one of the best hotels around Galle is Jetwing Lighthouse.
Time Travel Turtle was a guest of Sri Lankan Airlines and Cinnamon Hotels and Resorts but the opinions, over-written descriptions and bad jokes are his own.
Although you have mentioned Galle as ninth largest city of Sri Lanka (probably by population) , it is the forth important city after Colombo, Kandy and Jaffna
Yes, I was referring to population, which does make Galle number nine. But I appreciate you pointing out that it is actually more important than most cities in Sri Lanka!
Hi there. This is a brilliant site. I have been struggling to find intelligent and insightful information about Sri Lanka and this is the best site i have come across. You have covered all the areas I had wondered about and also have given me insight to venture to other areas in Sri Lanka that I had never thought about going to.
What about the name ..”Colombo”???